If your visit coincides with a public teaching by the Dalai Lama you need a pass: register in person at the Tsuglagkhang courtyard in the days before it starts, with passport, Indian visa and C-form copies (foreigners) or Aadhaar (India residents) and a small fee. Come between 05:00 and 07:00 on an ordinary day to see the monks' morning prayers before the tour groups arrive.
Your personal travel planning guide. Tell us about your dream trip and we'll hand you off to a human expert who'll build it. No payment until you choose.