The gateway to the North East, on the Brahmaputra
Assam's largest city and the gateway to the whole North East, spread along the Brahmaputra. The Kamakhya temple sits on Nilachal Hill above it; river cruises run from the Panbazar ghats at sunset.
Getting around. Taxis, app cabs and auto-rickshaws cover the city. Kamakhya Temple is on Nilachal Hill, and the river cruises start from the Panbazar ghats.
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Weather and best time to visit
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Best time to visit
November
Dry, mild and the only reliable window for Kaziranga. Grass is short after the floods recede, which is when rhino and elephant sightings are at their best.
Warm and still dry. The tea gardens flush with new growth and Bihu, the Assamese new year, falls in mid-April.
Heavy rain and Brahmaputra flooding. Kaziranga closes for the season, usually from mid-May until mid-October, and the animals move to higher ground.
The rain eases and the park reopens, though the exact date shifts each year with the water levels. Grass is still tall, so sightings improve as the month goes on.
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